Sometimes it needs a little extra umf to get on...

If not I would check...

- Part 18c-54. Sometimes it can be pushed down more.
- Make sure the blow back unit isn't jammed. 18c-9
- Check the slide release. Could be on wrong/not moving right. 18c-68

Tried it, still no luck.

Gets hung up right at the front of the hammer housing.

Its hard for us to diagnose and fix the gun when we don't have it in front of us. My suggestion is to take it to a local gun doc who can assist you.

I would say sign up on Arnies Airsoft There is a huge Glock thread on there two with a few US guys and at least one out of California posting in it.

Tnx but why when the mag is inserted in very strong way it works? and when it shots the first bb, all bb's are fired well?
Today I installed the Guarder steel mag catch but the issue is still here
About a strongest hammer spring, I am waiting for the Guarder recoil set, which includes the hammer spring I think and the steel valve knocker
I never taken apart the hammer mechanism of a Glock, do you know about a tutorial on the web?

http://bit.ly/XWGdhg
first link gets you a disassemble guide, first youtube link gets you a guide on how to take apart the hammer piece.

thanks, but the Marui G17 hammer mechanism is the same as the KJW G27?

From some brief reading, it appears that the KJW 23 is a mix of TM G17 and G26 parts.
Thread: http://www.jocairsoft.com/forums/top...g2332c-tm-g17/
In this thread Ken does say that all TM's glocks have the same internal designs.
This makes sense to me, why would any company make a new set of expensive molds when the only difference is the size of the slide/ frame, barrel, inner barrel?
With this same kind of thinking, why would a company that is cloning someone else's product try to change mechanisms, and increase the cost of producing the copy, and risk messing it up? The whole point of producing a copy is to quickly turn a profit, without using too much of your own resources.

You could also look at posts 99-105 or so in this thread: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?p=1710222
There are some exploded views of the TM 17, 26, and the KJW 23. To me, they all look the same.

A review of the KJW G23: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=14144
Within the first 10 lines it says that a KJW G23 is based off a KJW G27, which was cloned off a TM G26, which according to the above links has the same internal designs as a TM G17.

Perhaps the easiest way to find out if they are the same or not is to just try taking apart your pistol following the videos, and if a step doesn't line up, then you know if it is different or not, and can still reassemble it if you don't feel comfortable proceeding.

EDIT: Just realized that you were asking about the KJW G27, not the G23...
Still, looking at the diagram from this link: http://www.greekairsoft.gr/manuals/m...G27+Manual.pdf it appears to have the same hammer mechanism.

Thanks, now I am less concerned about the hammer mech disassembly, when enhanced hammer spring and steel valve knocker will be in my hands I'll start the job

Arrived 150% Guarder recoil springs and Guarder steel recoil rod.
The G27 Cycle very well but it has less power than with the weak stock recoil spring. Maybe a lube issue or a little break in is necessary?
I noticed that the stock rod has a larger flange on the front top? maybe I must use it with the Guarder rod?

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/2631/rodp.jpg

That's normal. When you upgrade the strength of the recoil spring, you also create more resistance for the rear slide stroke. That's why the felt recoil of your gun seems to be "less powerful".

Not really. All the flange does is stabilize the recoil spring guide relative to the outer barrel. The flange is pretty much like a barrel bushing found on the 1911s...except in reverse.

The magazine will only be inserted as high up as the magazine base allows. If it fires normally when you push it in with force, there is some sort misalign taking place between the valve knocker and the magazine valve. So to re-iterate what ILLusion says, install the enhanced hammer spring to create a good strike. If you find that the magazine is still causing trouble, I would look at how it sits in the magazine chamber with the slide off.

Here's a neat little expirement. Take your slide off. Charge and Insert the troublesome magazine. And pull the trigger.

From here you should be able to observe two things:

1). If you get a face full of air, then the magazine valve and firing pin is correctly inserted and it is functioning properly.

This means that the problem occurs when the slide is ON. At that point, you can assume that the slide is causing your magazine to sit a bit lower than it nominally should be thereby causing your problem.

You can then tailor a fix for it accordingly.

2). If it doesn't fire properly, you can see how the firing pin is hitting the magazine valve. You can then tailor your modification accordingly to properly optimize the strike face of both the valve and firing pin so that each is able to interact with each other efficiently.

It would help us all greatly if you can take some pics.
...or something that will allow us to see what your problem is.

Just upgraded my TM g17c with a PGC slide and Guarder frame.... slightly stressful but I've built a ton of RCs and figured it can't be too too hard...

My only "issue" now is that the takedown lever seems EXTREMELY tight. Tight enough that if I pull it down it stays down. Should I maybe sand the frame holes a bit? To alleviate any friction happening there?

That could be a possible fix. But be careful. This is a destructive modification. Don't take too much off as you can't get back what you sand off.

The problem is a bit of hole and alignment between the frame hole and chassis hole. Some times, they are a bit misaligned. Alot of the Guarder frames I work on have this issue...