WOW!

I just noticed this...
I was looking for this thread and didn't even realize it was stickied til now.
Thanks guys!!

Remember my trouble with valve knocker and Marui Magazine?
I just tried to fit the Shooter design Valve knocker but I have the same issue, and with original KJW magazine too the strike is not as powerful as with the stock valve knocker. So I think I should mod the SD knocker but I don't know how

Are you sure you've installed your hammer spring correctly? It just sounds like a hammer spring issue whereby it's not producing a strong strike.

Again, I don't know how your gun is working. Nor do I have to inspect. So I don't know if modding your new SD valve knocker will work.

If you still want to modify the knocker valve, just make sure that it has enough room to move in order to line up with the magazine valve. If it's too long, it can "slip" around the magazine valve during the hit on the valve and only produce a minor strike. One way to spot this is if your magazine can't free drop. Instead, the valve knocker will hang onto the magazine itself.

But be very careful NOT to take too much off. If you do, the knocker won't be long enough to efficiently press the magazine valve and you'll get the same lightstriking effect. You have to keep testing and refitting...

The only solace that I can give you is that since the stock magazine with the stock valve knocker works fine, I think you should stick to that. It's the only thing that works best for you. It's clear that your Marui magazine is not compatible with your KJW system.

yes. the spring is installed correctly, this because with the stock knocker the strike is much stronger.
Perhaps you are right to not use Marui mags, but I ever known about the full compatibility between KJW pistols and TM magazines

I 'll do a last try, I'll replace the TM magazien valve with an aftermarket one. and as soon the Guarder hammer spring with a stronger one.
This because is the TM mag is filled with a low pressure gas it works

Question about piston lid:

with my last parts order I added a guarder piston lid/head to the basket as I figured it couldn't hurt to have a spare;
My stock one (I think it is the stock one at least) still looks in great shape;
But I noticed the Guarder was harder than the stock.

so my question is basically this: Would a harder be better in that case or should I stick with the Marui one?

Colder weather is harsher on harder plastic components. In the winter time, a harder piston lid may break because the colder weather makes it more frigid. It's essentially like how water turns into icicles in the winter and how easily you are able break it off. It's *sort* of the same process.

It would be ideal to run the harder piston head in the summer because it's more harder and will create a better seal and is less likely to break.
Run the stock piston cup during the winter because it's a bit softer will have a longer time "freezing up" (for a lack of a better term).

For what it's worth, the stock piston cup works much better than most of the after market replacements out there. It provides a good seal as is. It only breaks if that gun your rocking has "too good a seal" because the design of the piston cup itself is not very solidified like the G17s piston head.

I'd say stick with the stock one all year long til it breaks. Use the Guarder one for a back up.

but if the piston cup isn't even seal properly, it won't even matter what type of material it is made out of. It will last for a while if this is the case. So I suppose you have to ensure that the seal is damn near perfect and doesn't impede the loading muzzle stroke.

In some cases with the Guarder piston cup, the experiences I've had yeilded me having to lubricate the piston cup a bit for the loading muzzle to function efficiently. It's not recommended you do this because you'll get your hop up bucking all wet with lube and crap. But I just did it because I was very frustrated with the product to begin with.

Guarder's been letting me down for long while now. I wouldn't be surprised if that piston cup somehow breaks on you sooner rather than later....

Noted
Thanks for the input!

BTW, that hammer bearing question you posted on the other thread...

That's normal.
Even on the stock hammer set, that component has a tendency to catch on the BBU. This problem also persists in the latter G17 platform. So it's not uncommon for you to have these issues.

It would be wrong for you to wear the BBU down. You just have to run it's course. Lube the gun. Charge and dry fire the gun a million times without any gas and you should be good to go.

You COULD pre-emptively wear the hammer bearing down but that would be counter intuitive of the whole replacement process. But if you are going to do it regardless, just make sure you take off as less as possible.... and keep re-testing it.

Otherwise, if you take too much off, you won't get that sear to lock the hammer. lol

Custom rear plate
 

Is it possible to put a custom rear plate like these http://www.rockyourglock.com/parts/BlackSCPs.htm to am Airsoft Glock?
I know this should be a troubled Dremel work but I ask you if anyone has made it

No.

THe Tokyo Marui Glocks have an integrated cover plate. the BBU is one piece and it includes the backplate...

It may work for the KSC/KWA line because of the proper dimensions. But as you said, you'd have to modify the hell out of the RS coverplate you're looking at.
That RS plate has to house a retention spring for he firing mechanism on a RS Glock. Plus you'll have to combat all kinds of fitting issues if want to mount THAT thing on an Airsoft Glock.

Another one that could be possible is the VFC/Stark Arms Glocks. They have a seperate cover plate like the RS Glocks do.

But Again, as you specified, you'll need a lot of dremmel work fit it and then find someway to lock it into place so that it doesn't drop out during operation...

Anyone knows is this hammer spring is suitable only for the TN G17? http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...ecial&rs=glock hammer spring&catid=&cat=
I need for a KJW G26

G26/27 threaded barrel
 

I found on sale this http://www.airsoftextremo.com/acceso...000057190.html
I didn't know about it, I think is nice not only to add a silencer but an orange muzzle too, when required

This hammer spring is my preferred choice. It's much more consistent than the Guarder ones. You get a tighter FPS output.

Don't know about mounting on a KJW though. I haven't tried it before....

Be careful when you use a suppressor.
It pulls your outerbarrel down and interrupts the slide action. In most cases, if the suppressor is too heavy, your slide will not be able return to battery at all. Rather, it will get stuck on the forward stroke.

In the extreme cases, and this occurs mostly on short barrelled pistols, sometimes it will actually interrupt the tilt cycle of the barrel and will lock up the slide. This is because the weight of the suppressor will not allow the barrel to slip beneath the slide. The result is that your gun will vent out the magazine because the valve disconnect is not tripped since the slide is "locked" (it can't cycle and remains in battery).

So be cautious. The barrel is fine to acquire and install but the suppressor needs to be light enough so that it doesn't interrupt the functionality of the slide and barrel...

Question for those with experience with the Airsoft Surgeon Super Hard Nozzle:

I recently just replaced all the stock/Guarder nozzles on my Glocks with the AS Clear nozzle, hoping for better efficiency and durability. While I did get better durability, I believe my gas efficiency has gone to hell. I can't finish an entire long mag without heavy cool down effects (and there isn't any auto or rapid firing involved). As soon as I hit the 25th round or so, I can feel the huge loss in slide kickback. I also get tons of liquid sprayed out of the ejection port (not sure if it's either propane or silicone oil) on each shot.

The gun would shoot fine (without any liquid spray) with the stock TM nozzle in the same conditions (indoor at Ultimate Airsoft). Does anyone else experience this as well?