Gun Doc: Upgrading a UTG M14.
 

Hey folks.

So here's the situation.

I've got a UTG m14 project gun on the go. I need to replace the selector switch on it. Is that a hard fix? ( I have ) experiance in gun repair.)

Also.

In terms of upgradability, I'm looking to prolong the overall life of the gun, not make it shoot harder / faster.

I know some general terms about upgrading airsoft guns, but little about what each part does, and as such, looking for a little help.

What are the first steps in making an airsoft gun last a little longer, maybe shoot a little farther (without being of detriment to the gun itself... as I've heard some upgrades wear on the life cycle.)

Thanks.

You need to replace the selector switch? Like, the actual switch itself, or the mechanism?

The general idea of increasing mechbox life is to reduce internal stress. Downgrade to stay away from 400fps or high ROF, make sure your shimming is good, and your motor height is optimal.

Well, it's stock inside.

The mechanism. It's made from shitty metal so it wears quick..

Shouldn't be a hard fix at all, the only thing I'd worry about is how closely UTG followed TM tolerances. I worked on a KART M14 once, and it was pretty terrible. I expect UTG to be much better.

So, provided the tolerances are the same, I can buy a fire selector switch, and install it, how? (the gun only shoots full auto... or since this will be converted into a m1 garand... is there a way to make it semi-only?)

Not quite sure I understand the question. Assuming the tolerances are the same, simply swap the worn piece inside the gun with the one you bought. If it's only shooting full auto, you've probably got a worn cut-off lever.

As for locking a TM14 into semi... Hm. I know there's a way, I'm just not positive what. I think it involves removing the selector assembly (that plastic bracket that the selector switch moves).

There's a little rod that connect the selector on the right side of the mechbox to the plate on the left...

Take out the rod, and it's semi only.

So my next question would then have to be...

By switching to semi-only... is there any negative effect on the gun?

Switching semi only is pretty much not a great idea for all AEGs because of the abrupt stop involved in cutting off over travel of the gears. Plus I found that on my CYMA M14, the gear box has problems doing semi too often and I'd have to switch to FA to free it up again

There is always this: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=55827

I was just about to suggest that. I bought one, is in the mail now, but the reason this is posted is because it can be programmed to Safe - Semi - Semi and doesn't require the selector mechanism to make it semi only, it does it by controlling the motor.

Well, looks like that is the answer.

Thanks all.

You can also leave the selector switch, the plastic U shaped bit, out. Your cut-off lever will fail, this is just how M14s are, and Guarder makes a steel version for those. The best life span I have heard on stock parts is 20000 on a TM cut-off lever. If you want 400FPS I'd go for a POM piston head and check your shimming and lube. There is no problem to having a reliable gun at 400FPS it just wont last as long as if you had a low FPS. Thats one of the reasons why TMs last so long, they don't shoot over 300FPS.

http://extreme-fire.com/SW-COMPUTER.html
semi-semi-safe plus they will soon have pre-cocking which will be available as an upgrade for their MOSFET. I have two of these and they are pretty fun. The AEG boots once its plugged up to a battery.

I'd hate to raise the dead here...

I actually have the nerve to do this.
I do not, however... have the 65$ to put down on one of those switches...

So..

"There's a little rod that connect the selector on the right side of the mechbox to the plate on the left...

Take out the rod, and it's semi only."

Is that the easiet, most reliable way?

Will it hurt the gun?

It's reliable. It won't hurt the gun, though you'll still experience cut-off lever wear.